Friday, May 3, 2013
Tuesday, August 21, 2012
Misfire/one cylinder not running/Rough run
using this post for pictures to help diagnose what the hell is my bike's problem...
Tuesday, August 14, 2012
Trouble!
So after a 100mile ride, about mile #80 bike lost power and did 2 big backfires, but rode home ok the last 20. I take the bike out again a day later and the bike didn't feel right or like it did have a loss of power. So today I cleaned out the carbs from back to front and inside and out, also cleaned and scrubbed the coils and grounds. Bike now runs rough and the carbs are acting really funny... I guess im going back to basics to figure out what's wrong now...
Thursday, August 2, 2012
new "rubber"
New Rubber! well both tires and tubes replaced
I went with shinko 712's with 100/90/18 in the front and 110/90/18 in the rear, they were the same size is what was on the bike when i bought it and research has shown that going 120/90/18 on the rear is almost too tight of a fit with some problems. But don't get me wrong other say its fine and make it work but i had to nudge the wheel past the drum break and i think if it was wider you would have to deflate the tire to get it on.
Also had a bit of problems, bike started to basically have "no guts" and with some help from the forums decided it was the carb diaphragms that needed to be replaced. Replaced the diaphrams and put the stock carb boots back on to the airbox, i still feel like it runs better with the pod filters though.
I went with shinko 712's with 100/90/18 in the front and 110/90/18 in the rear, they were the same size is what was on the bike when i bought it and research has shown that going 120/90/18 on the rear is almost too tight of a fit with some problems. But don't get me wrong other say its fine and make it work but i had to nudge the wheel past the drum break and i think if it was wider you would have to deflate the tire to get it on.
Also had a bit of problems, bike started to basically have "no guts" and with some help from the forums decided it was the carb diaphragms that needed to be replaced. Replaced the diaphrams and put the stock carb boots back on to the airbox, i still feel like it runs better with the pod filters though.
Sunday, July 22, 2012
First Ride
The Bike is alive and Running, but could be running better. Took my first ride up through the canyons and i love the way the bike purrs @ 2500rpm. Things that need to be addressed, after a 20 min ride or so is left me with a high idle, I guess the points advancer needed to be lubed with the springs (i did not know to do this), also the exhaust valves could be really right, I do hear noise coming from the front and the right side of the bike. The bike is going to be taken into (http://bavarianmotorcycleworkshop.com/) to get the points all lubed up, the valves checked and tightened and also to trace an air leak in carbs that might be the choke was replaced upside down (my bad).
but the bike runs great and will run even better after being tuned. Its not super powerful but sounds great, has character like no one else and is pretty unique. Check out my helmet i ride with, i love it!
but the bike runs great and will run even better after being tuned. Its not super powerful but sounds great, has character like no one else and is pretty unique. Check out my helmet i ride with, i love it!
More work to be done
So now that the fuel system is pretty much all brand new, on to the rest of it. Next to put a fresh battery in it, I bought a Westco 12V20P Battery to put in the bike, and love it, i think i paid about $86 shipped to my house and just paid attention to the size and CCA which was more than most companies were putting out with their batteries.
Next the headlight switch was very sad and non-existant. That was replaced by an R100 Switch for about $50 plus shipping used of course.
Finally i need to solve the headlight issue, Basically when i got it the ears were broken and the headlight was attached by zip-ties... So that the headlight mount is metal i had an idea to use JB weld on it to fix it and then paint it black and you would never know, the problem is that the ears weren't sticking very well and were not staying straight, so decided to toss that part seems how it was wrecked anyways... Looking for a stock replacement most people wanted to sell the whole assembly and its around $100 to $150.. So instead i decided to buy some aftermarket ones from Dime City Cycles for about $15, and then ordered new Aluminum clear single filament turn signals also $15, not bad eh? I cut the headlight mount because it was 1/2 a gauge mount as well, mounted the headlight and the headlight mounts have 2 holes at the end, one for the headlight and one for the turn signals, I did have to cut the stud on the turn signals due to the very tight space on the side of the headlight bucket. Very happy with the result, i feel like it cleans up the front of the bike also.
So the only complaint about this is.. There is no aftermarket gauge mount for the BMW r65, so using the stock mount, the gauges aren't secure anymore and have a bit of play. So two things i did to fix this for the time being, Basically mounted the headlight as high up as i can to have the plastic gauge housing rest on the headlight and then used the two holes in the bottom of the gauge mount and used black zip ties to forks. Works great and you can't see it either and its really stiff
here is a small video of the wiggle i was talking about
Moving Along, how about some Tune up stuff?
Spark Plugs were replaced with new Bosch plugs 7992.
Oil and filter was replaced, I went with AMSoil because I did some research and for the money and the results it showed to be the best oil you can buy. It gets to be about 100 degrees where i live and its an airhead relying on Air and oil to cool the motor, 20w50 was what i chose.
Stock Air filter was pulled and replaced with air pods that were $10 a piece, but i will probably go back to stock soon because i only wanted the pods to get the bike to run and see if the carbs were properly functioning.
Second, I have been having trouble with the bike running since i bought her. so the next step was go through other parts, such as Replacing the Condenser and the points. Buy from this site, its the cheapest and he has the correct parts (http://www.motoelekt.com/ignition.htm) Pulled the front cover and replaced those, I might want to suggest that when you put the front cover back on be sure to check and make sure that you are not pinching any wires... I did and it took a while to figure out why the bike would just crank and have no spark!
The first pictures were not mine, but pulled off another site but i thought they were very well informative.
Finally i need to solve the headlight issue, Basically when i got it the ears were broken and the headlight was attached by zip-ties... So that the headlight mount is metal i had an idea to use JB weld on it to fix it and then paint it black and you would never know, the problem is that the ears weren't sticking very well and were not staying straight, so decided to toss that part seems how it was wrecked anyways... Looking for a stock replacement most people wanted to sell the whole assembly and its around $100 to $150.. So instead i decided to buy some aftermarket ones from Dime City Cycles for about $15, and then ordered new Aluminum clear single filament turn signals also $15, not bad eh? I cut the headlight mount because it was 1/2 a gauge mount as well, mounted the headlight and the headlight mounts have 2 holes at the end, one for the headlight and one for the turn signals, I did have to cut the stud on the turn signals due to the very tight space on the side of the headlight bucket. Very happy with the result, i feel like it cleans up the front of the bike also.
So the only complaint about this is.. There is no aftermarket gauge mount for the BMW r65, so using the stock mount, the gauges aren't secure anymore and have a bit of play. So two things i did to fix this for the time being, Basically mounted the headlight as high up as i can to have the plastic gauge housing rest on the headlight and then used the two holes in the bottom of the gauge mount and used black zip ties to forks. Works great and you can't see it either and its really stiff
here is a small video of the wiggle i was talking about
Moving Along, how about some Tune up stuff?
Spark Plugs were replaced with new Bosch plugs 7992.
Oil and filter was replaced, I went with AMSoil because I did some research and for the money and the results it showed to be the best oil you can buy. It gets to be about 100 degrees where i live and its an airhead relying on Air and oil to cool the motor, 20w50 was what i chose.
Stock Air filter was pulled and replaced with air pods that were $10 a piece, but i will probably go back to stock soon because i only wanted the pods to get the bike to run and see if the carbs were properly functioning.
Second, I have been having trouble with the bike running since i bought her. so the next step was go through other parts, such as Replacing the Condenser and the points. Buy from this site, its the cheapest and he has the correct parts (http://www.motoelekt.com/ignition.htm) Pulled the front cover and replaced those, I might want to suggest that when you put the front cover back on be sure to check and make sure that you are not pinching any wires... I did and it took a while to figure out why the bike would just crank and have no spark!
The first pictures were not mine, but pulled off another site but i thought they were very well informative.
Fuel System
The bike is home and already know what im going to do first. The Fuel System...
Tank on the inside was sprayed with a pressure washer by the previous owner but it had rust on the inside. Carbs were ugly and the fuel lines were the original black with a fuel filter looking well used. So lets start there, The Tank.. Rusty on the inside and its a 5 gal tank, I did some research and saw a product that said was great and showed a "video" of how great it works, its called Metal Rescue (http://www.metalrescue.com/home.aspx). DO NOT BUY! It is crap, I believe i paid about $25 a gallon for this junk. Basically it is good for very very light rust that you can just brush off with a wire brush, but anything more... and its a waste, they pride themselves on its re-useable till it turns black. I used about 1 gal in my 5 gal tank till it was black and yes i let it soak for about 3 days time, rotating the tank every 8-12 hours. It didn't do a dent to the rust. So i called a few radiator shops, they all wanted $100 or more up to $200 for the job to de-rust the tank and seal it. Finally i found a guy that said he would do it for $60 O!O. That's a deal, de-rust the tank and sealed and it took him about 3 days turn around, super happy with the end result!
(I realized i should have taken pictures but i totally forgot to, but believe me radiator shop is the way to go)
Next the Carbs and petcock.
Bing 32's, Well I spent about $90 for a rebuild kit for both carbs, from Hucky's in Flordia (great prices i think by the way). Kit came with all the gaskets, and also 2 of the floats. Carbs looked pretty ugly, and what the hell is with the top's being blue? id rather it just be that nice alloy. So I soaked them one at a time in carb cleaner and always cleaned out with hot water, followed by simple green and a nylon brush then rinsed again. I thought they turned out great. That price also included the rebuild gaskets for the petcock also which was interesting to figure out, a little tip is use grease with the gaskets on the petcock and also the threads, it will seat better and will dissolve in the fuel too.
Fuel line was ugly as black plus i wanted to see if i had fuel or not and didn't like the bend that you get that looks like the line was pinched. I replaced it with some blue translucent fuel lines and a clear 90 degree fuel filter, very happy with the result and watching the fuel go from the tank to both carbs
Tank on the inside was sprayed with a pressure washer by the previous owner but it had rust on the inside. Carbs were ugly and the fuel lines were the original black with a fuel filter looking well used. So lets start there, The Tank.. Rusty on the inside and its a 5 gal tank, I did some research and saw a product that said was great and showed a "video" of how great it works, its called Metal Rescue (http://www.metalrescue.com/home.aspx). DO NOT BUY! It is crap, I believe i paid about $25 a gallon for this junk. Basically it is good for very very light rust that you can just brush off with a wire brush, but anything more... and its a waste, they pride themselves on its re-useable till it turns black. I used about 1 gal in my 5 gal tank till it was black and yes i let it soak for about 3 days time, rotating the tank every 8-12 hours. It didn't do a dent to the rust. So i called a few radiator shops, they all wanted $100 or more up to $200 for the job to de-rust the tank and seal it. Finally i found a guy that said he would do it for $60 O!O. That's a deal, de-rust the tank and sealed and it took him about 3 days turn around, super happy with the end result!
(I realized i should have taken pictures but i totally forgot to, but believe me radiator shop is the way to go)
Next the Carbs and petcock.
Bing 32's, Well I spent about $90 for a rebuild kit for both carbs, from Hucky's in Flordia (great prices i think by the way). Kit came with all the gaskets, and also 2 of the floats. Carbs looked pretty ugly, and what the hell is with the top's being blue? id rather it just be that nice alloy. So I soaked them one at a time in carb cleaner and always cleaned out with hot water, followed by simple green and a nylon brush then rinsed again. I thought they turned out great. That price also included the rebuild gaskets for the petcock also which was interesting to figure out, a little tip is use grease with the gaskets on the petcock and also the threads, it will seat better and will dissolve in the fuel too.
Fuel line was ugly as black plus i wanted to see if i had fuel or not and didn't like the bend that you get that looks like the line was pinched. I replaced it with some blue translucent fuel lines and a clear 90 degree fuel filter, very happy with the result and watching the fuel go from the tank to both carbs
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